The History
It was as early as 1810 that mining assessor Jens Esmark from the Kongsberg Silver Mines put Vestfjord Valley on the map with his report “Observations Made on a Journey to Gausta Mountain in Upper Telemark,” in which he famously—but incorrectly—proclaimed Rjukanfossen to be the tallest waterfall in the world. This sparked the interest of scientists, artists, writers, and adventurers, who soon followed the same route to Rjukan, where they described, painted, wrote about, and praised their travels.
That same summer in 1810, botany professor Christen Smith also visited Rjukan and hiked the Gaustastien to the top of Telemark. He was so fascinated by the journey that he returned in 1812 with his close friend Joakim Frederik Schouw. Their observations and experiences were published in 1817 in the report “Some Observations, Especially on the Glaciers, from a Mountain Journey in Norway in 1812,” which became an important contribution in laying the foundation for the wave of national romantic expeditions that followed over the next hundred years.
In 1820, King Charles John finally sent his cartographer Wilhelm Maximillian Carpelan to Vestfjord Valley to document both Gausta and Rjukanfossen. His work was later published in two editions: one in French – “Voyage Pittoresque supèrieur et là chute d’eau nommée Riukand-Foss” and one in Swedish – “Journey to Upper Telemark and Riukand-Fossen.” Two years later, in 1823, his sketches and illustrations were exhibited in Christiania (Oslo), laying the foundation for the first wave of modern Norwegian tourism — right here in Vestfjord Valley.
Throughout the 19th century, artists and scientists continued to follow the Gaustastien from Dale to the summit. Among the earliest hikers were Andreas Faye, Simon Olaus Wolff, Peder Balke, Johan Christian Dahl, Andreas Munch, Johannes Flintoe, and Christopher Hansteen. Later came the likes of Adolph Tidemand, Bayard Taylor, Alfred Lord Tennyson, and Jules Verne. What they all had in common was their path over Grenstaul’s “vårstaul” — a summer mountain farm — where one of the original buildings still stands today.
In 1884, the trail was widened to “carriage width” through a joint effort between innkeeper John Olsen Dahle and the Norwegian Trekking Association (DNT), making it passable by horse and cart. In modern times, DNT Telemark has restored the upper section from Stavsro with footbridges, stone steps, and clear trail markings. The lower stretch from the valley floor up to the plateau was long neglected, overgrown, and partly damaged by logging and road construction. Today, dedicated enthusiasts have cleared, marked, and restored this stretch as part of the larger cultural trail “Kunstnerleden” (The Artists' Trail), allowing you to once again walk in the footsteps of the pioneers and artists of the 1800s.
Please note that some sections of the original trail have been rerouted due to roadwork and forestry operations over recent decades. However, when you come across old stone slabs and moss-covered walls, you'll know you are walking the very same path once traversed by Flintoe, Dahl, Tidemand, Tennyson, and Verne — more than 200 years ago.
Enjoy your hike!
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